RV Trax Panama City

Year: 2011

  • How to Make RV Front Window Curtains

    How to Make RV Front Window Curtains

    How to make RV Front Window Curtains

    RV furnishings can become boring if they are not updated. Making new curtains can help with the look of your RV. Recreational Vehicle front windows have a Track System for the curtains to mount on. Custom curtains give you a wide range of prints and colors to chose from and can brighten the living area. Custom window treatments give the RV a personalized one of a kind style.

    Instructions:

    1. Measure the width of the front window or the track length if it is a wrap around style for the side windows. Place the measuring tape on the top left corner of the window or track and carefully, following any contours, measure to the opposite corner. Record this measurement. Double this number. This is your curtain width.
    2. Measure the height of the front window from the top corner to the bottom corner, or from the upper Curtain Track to the top of the dash. Add 3 inches to this measurement for the top and bottom helms. This is the curtain fabric length.
    3. Cut a piece of fabric that equals the length and width measurements. Multiple panels of fabric may be required to meet the width measurement. If this is required add ½ inch to the width measurement for every panel, thus allowing for ¼ inch seams to join the panels.
    4. Place the curtain fabric on a flat surface with the back side up. Turn the short ends of the fabric to the back side ¼ inch. Press in place and stitch with the sewing machine.
    5. Place the curtain fabric on a table with the back side up and hem the top and bottom edges. Fold the top edge back ½ inch and press in place. Turn another 1 inch and secure with pins. Machine stitch in place. Repeat the same steps for the bottom edge.
    6. Add Grommets to the top edge, (and bottom if required), of the curtain fabric. Start at the left edge about ½ inch from the top. Position a grommet every inch. Make a hole in the center with a Punching Tool from the Grommet Kit. If necessary, add grommets to the bottom of the fabric in the same manner. Line the top and bottom grommets up. The curtain is ready to hang on the existing front window tracking system. Curtain Track, Curtain Sliders, and Curtain Stops can be purchased as required.

     

    Tips and Warnings

    You can add character and style to the curtains with appliques, tassels, trims and beads. You can make curtain holders secured with Velcro to tie the curtain back when not in use.

    Choose fabrics designed withstand lots of sun. These fabrics are fade resistant and the colors will last longer than other types of fabrics.

     

    Congratulations, you now have custom one of a kind front window curtains that you can be proud of.

  • De-Winterizing Fresh Water Supply

    De-Winterizing Fresh Water Supply

    Removing Antifreeze from Fresh Water System after Winterizing

    When putting your Recreational Vehicle back into service after winterizing, it is important to flush the fresh water system of all the Anti freeze used to winterize and protect the fresh water system from freezing, Following a few steps will assure you of a clean fresh water system.

    1. Drain the fresh water holding tank of any antifreeze that was added. During the winterizing process. Shut the fresh water tank low point drain valve.
    2. Remove the drain plug from the water heater and allow it to drain. Re-install the plug. .
    3. Put several gallons of fresh water into the fresh water holding tank. Open the low point fresh water tank drain and allow the water to drain completely. Close the low point drain valve..
    4. Refill the fresh water tank with several gallons of fresh water..
    5. Turn the fresh water pump on
    6. Open all the cold water faucets one by one and allow the water to flow for several minutes.
    7. Turn the fresh water pump off.
    8. Connect the city water inlet to the fresh water hose and turn the city water supply on.
    9. Open all the hot and cold water faucets and allow water to flow for several minutes. Flush the toilet a few times. If you have a washer machine, operate in in a warm cycle to allow anti freeze to be flushed out. Open the outdoor shower faucets if equipped.
    10. If equipped with a water heater bypass, turn the valves back to the normal position. And open all the hot water faucets, one by one allowing the air to escape. Allow all hot water faucets to flow for a few minutes.
    11. A great option at this time would be to perform the fresh water sanitation procedure outlined in the Fresh Water Sanitation article to have a clean fresh water system.
    12. It would be recommended to shut the fresh water supply off and relieve the pressure bu opening a hot water spigot. Remove the hot water heater drain plug and allow it to drain again. Re-install the plug and refill the tank.

    Your fresh water system is now ready for safe use.

  • RV Electrical Shocks

    RV Electrical Shocks

    If you have ever experienced an electrical shock when you touch your RV, or while entering or exiting your RV, there is a safety concern to avoid injury or possible electrocution.

    This is a condition called “Hot Skin” and is often caused by the wiring in the electrical receptacle that your RV Cord is plugged into, or a faulty extension cord.  It can also be caused by faulty wiring or connections in your Recreational Vehicle.  If electrical “Hot” and “Neutral” wires are reversed or the Ground wire is improperly connected, your coach and you can become an electrical circuit with unpleasant or dangerous results.

    There is an inexpensive small device available called a Polarity Tester.  This  device will eliminate the guesswork and the possible hazards before you plug in your RV to Shore Power.  Simply plug  the device into the Shore Power Outlet, before plugging in your RV Electrical Cord. It is a simple device to use, and can save you money and possibly save your life.

    After checking the Shore Power Outlet, it is recommended to check your RV outlets regularly.  Road vibrations can cause wiring connections to loosen and possibly causing damage to your RV.

  • Water System Sanitation

    Water System Sanitation

    WATER SYSTEM SANITATION
    It is not uncommon for RV owners to complain of bad water. The first sign of contaminated water systems is usually a bad taste, followed by odors emanating from the water supply. Bacteria may have built up in the water tank, especially if the water tanks supply has not been used frequently and
    not been replenished with clean water regularly. When a rig comes out of storage or is being used extensively on a city water connection, the fresh water tank and the entire water system should be sanitized before use. The following steps should be taken to disinfect the entire water system:

    1. Turn off the city water supply. Verify the water heater is turned off. Remove the water heater drain plug.
    2. Drain the fresh water tank and water heater completely.
    3. Close the fresh water valve and reinstall the water heater drain plug.
    4. Refill the fresh water tank about half way with fresh water.
    5. Mix ¼ cup of household bleach for every 15 gallons of the fresh water and water heater tanks total capacity, in a container of one or two gallons of fresh water. Pour this mixture into the fresh water tank and top off the tank with fresh water.
    6. Turn on the fresh water pump and open all the faucets, including the toilet. Allow the air to escape from the hot water supply to fill the water heater tank. This will fill the entire system with the bleach solution.
    7. Top off the water tank again with fresh water.
    8. Drive the vehicle if possible to slosh the solution, then let stand for several hours.
    9. Completely drain the entire fresh water system including the water heater.
    10. Close the fresh water tank valve and reinstall the drain plugs.
    11. To neutralize the bleach odor, mix ½ cup of baking soda with about one gallon of fresh water and pour into the fresh water tank. Refill the tank with fresh water, turn the pump on again and flush this mixture through the entire system.
    12. To drain the baking soda solution, open the fresh water tank valve and remove the water heater drain plug, then proceed to drain the entire system again. Close the fresh water tank valve and reinstall the water heater drain plug.
    13. Refill the fresh water tank with clean water, turn on the pump, then open the hot water and cold water faucets until all of the air has escaped. Turn your hot water heater back on. Now your fresh water system is disinfected and cleaner than new. If you would like a qualified professional to perform this service for you, call (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com.

  • Refrigerator Maintenance

    Refrigerator Maintenance

    RV Refrigerator Maintenance Tips

    The absorption style RV refrigerator requires very little maintenance, but there are some things that you can do to maintain proper operations. The most important tip is only operating the refrigerator while your RV is level and to keep it clean, preventing any obstructions in the wall and roof venting system. The air flow through the back of the refrigerator is gravity controlled. Cooler air is drawn through the lower exterior wall vent exterior venting system flowing across the hot refrigerator coils. The warm air rises out through the upper wall vent or roof vent. The rising air collects heat from the evaporator fins as it passes by, thus removing heat from the cooling unit. Air flow cooling problems increase during hot and humid climates and are more prevalent with refrigerators mounted in slide out walls with a upper exterior wall vent.
    If you have poor refrigerator cooling performance, use a mirror and light at the bottom backside compartment of the refrigerator facing upwards. Verify that there is not any insulation or other obstructions that are restricting air flow. There should be a maximum of one inch clearance between the evaporator coils and the facing wall. If the clearance is more than this, your refrigerator will benefit by the addition of baffles. It is sometimes necessary to remove the refrigerator to install baffles. This will generally result in much improved cooling efficiency. Some models of refrigerators also use fans located on the rear coils to aid in air flow. These fans are temperature controlled by the coils and can generally be heard operating during warmer climates. It is very important that fan operation is verified. A small fan can also be installed aiding in additional air flow. Parking with the refrigerator side in a shaded area, will also help cooling efficiency.
    During hot and humid weather, your refrigerator is working to capacity. It is recommended that the refrigerator doors be closed as much as possible. Decide what you need to remove or put into the refrigerator beforehand. Open and close the doors as quickly as possible. Do not overload the refrigerator storage compartment. It is important to allow for air currents to circulate inside the food storage compartment for adequate cooling. Small battery operated fans can be placed in the food storage compartment to aid in air circulation and maintaining a even air temperature throughout the food compartment. It is also recommended to limit the amount of heavy items stored on the refrigerator doors to avoid expensive hinge and door replacement.
    Check the door seals by inserting a dollar bill between the door and refrigerator cabinet. Close the door on the bill, checking for slight resistance when you pull the bill out. Repeat this test all the way around the door opening. If there are any places where resistance is not felt, a rolled up paper towel temporarily installed behind that section of seal and a hair dryer to heat the seal may correct the problem. After the seal has cooled, remove the rolled up paper towel and recheck the seal with the bill. A torn or damaged door seal will require seal or door replacement.
    Always start the refrigerator at least 24 hours before using, allowing it to cool while empty. Cool all food and beverages before loading a the RV refrigerator. Allow all hot or warm foods to cool to room temperature before putting it away. This will greatly reduce defrosting requirements and greatly increase cooling performance.
    It is recommended to monitor your refrigerators interior temperature to ensure food safety. A fridge alarm is available. This is a dual temperature monitor system that emits both audible and visible warnings when interior temperatures exceed your settings. A recommended product is a Camco Fridge alarm manufacturer # 41223 or our catalog # 14-7873. Visit our website at www.rvtraxinc.com for more information.
    Watch this RV Education 101 video for a better understanding of your RV refrigerator operation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiODEcUAkeU&feature=related

  • RV Refrigerator Repair

    RV Refrigerator Repair

    RV Refrigerator Repair Tips

    The following information is basic tips to aid in diagnostics and repair of your RV refrigerator. These types of repairs should be performed by a professional RV technician. We cannot accept any liabilities from lack of information or injuries caused from the following information. It is recommended that you obtain and follow factory service manual procedures before attempting any repairs or service procedures. We provide all of these repairs at RV Trax, Inc. service facility. Phone # (850)866-6999 or visit our website at www.rvtraxinc.com.

    Poor cooling performance of an RV refrigerator can be caused by several conditions. The first recommendation is to always check for any refrigerator recalls. Our website at www.rvtraxinc.com has quick links to manufacturer recalls. Click here for a RV Education 101 refrigerator video to help you understand the operation of your refrigerator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiODEcUAkeU&feature=related

    LEAKING COOLING UNIT
    A strong ammonia smell from the refrigerator food compartment, or the outside rear of the refrigerator indicates a leaking cooling unit. This can be a dangerous condition, causing a fire. A visual inspection should be performed at the rear of the refrigerator by removing the outside wall vent cover. Inspect for any green or yellow residue around the refrigerator coils, boiler area or sheet metal base. It can appear as a dried liquid stain or a powder type residue. There is a chemical called Sodium Chromate mixed with the ammonia, hydrogen and water solution that circulates in the cooling unit to help prevent corroding of the cooling unit tubing. If a leak develops, the sodium chromate changes from a liquid to a powder in the presence of air. If any of these conditions exist, unplug and disable the refrigerator from use immediately, to avoid a possible life threatening threat. This indicates the cooling unit or refrigerator will need to be replaced.
    If the boiler is warm and the absorber tank is hot, this indicates that a leak has developed and the hydrogen gas has escaped. The liquid ammonia does not change into a vapor without the hydrogen gas atmosphere so it circulates as a liquid causing this condition. The cooling unit will need to be replaced. Replacement parts can be obtained at www.rvtraxinc.com

    TESTING THE COOLING UNIT
    This test can be performed by feel. For this test, you will use your hands. Use caution to avoid burns, if there are any cooling unit malfunctions.
    A properly operating cooling unit will have equally warm heat temperatures in the middle sections of the boiler tubes and the absorber tank.
    When a cooling unit malfunctions due to a blockage, the boiler section may be to hot to touch and the absorber tank will be relatively cool. Any blockage reduces the free flow of the solutions and will inhibit or completely prevent proper cooling operation. A blockage is generally caused when the refrigerator is operated in a off level condition. Regular operation in off level conditions causes a cumulative cooling unit blockage damage starting the degradation process. This damage also occurs from excessive heat from either the L.P. Flame or improper electric heating elements.
    The heat that is generated by the propane flame or the electric heating elements is the heat force that initiates the cycling movement of the solutions inside the cooling unit. The refrigerator relies on gravity to move the solutions through the system once the heat source has lifted the solutions to the top of the cooling unit. The passages that the solution must travel through have only a slight slope and any off level condition will hinder the gravity flow. What happens in this situation, is that the solution in the cooling unit overheats and crystallizes into solid particles that form and lodge into places forming restrictions.
    There is not a way to reverse this problem. A temporary procedure that may restore cooling is to remove the refrigerator and lay it on the right side for at least 12 hours, rotate upside down for at least 12 hours, rotate to the left side for at least 12 hours. Turn it back upright for at least another 12 hours. Restore power for at least 24 hours and test for proper cooling.

    ADVANCED TESTING METHODS
    Make sure that there is no ammonia smell or green yellow residue present. If any of these conditions are present, DO NOT OPERATE THE REFRIGERATOR. Verify the refrigerator unit is level. Unplug the power cord and turn off the LP gas. If you have a 3 way fridge that operates on 12 volt DC, caution must be used to avoid using this element for this test. Locate the 110 volt heating element(s) leads at the cylindrical casing surrounding the boiler flue, approximately 12 inches above the LP flame inspection cover. These leads will go directly to terminals located into the black control box at the rear of the refrigerator. Disconnect the leads from the control module terminals. Modify a power cord with 2 insulated male flat spade terminals to connect directly to the 110 volt heating element wire terminals. If you unit has two 110 volt heating elements, make a Y type jumper to connect both heating elements together. Polarity is not important. Plug the cord into a 110 volt wall outlet. If you are not comfortable performing this procedure contact a authorized RV technician or have the professionals at www.rvtraxinc.com perform cooling unit testing and repair for you.
    Place a thermometer into a glass of water in the refrigerator food compartment and close the door. It is important to use the glass of water for this test as it equalizes the temperature reading. After 12 hours the temperature should be 43 degrees F. or colder. After 24 hours the temperature should be in the mid 30’s or lower. If these temperatures are not reached and maintained, the cooling unit or refrigerator must be replaced. Verify that heat is emitted from the refrigerator coils to verify proper heat source electrical operation. Without a heat source, cooling operation will not be present. This would indicate possible faulty heating element(s).

    ELECTRIC HEATING ELEMENT TESTING
    The electric heating element(s) supply the necessary heat for refrigerator operation on shore power. The element(s) can be checked with a ohm meter. Always disconnect the power cord and 12 volt source before performing this test. Locate and disconnect the 110 volt heating element wires. Connect an ohm meter across the terminals and check the resistance. A zero reading indicates a shorted element. A infinite reading indicates a open element. In either case, replace the heating element. The correct reading varies from model to model. Consult the service manual for specific model resistance measurements. Electric elements can be removed and replace by twisting the element back and forth while applying upward pressure.

    L.P. FLAME INSPECTION OR OUTAGE
    It is difficult to tell by looking at the flame, if it is a proper flame or slightly reduced. The flame should be a blue color. If the flame appears yellow or has a squashed appearance, it is an indication of a restricted flue. When operating in the LP gas mode, the products of combustion are removed by the flue. After a period of time, soot and rust particles will accumulate on the inside surface of the flue. Road vibrations will loosen these deposits causing them to crumble and fall to the burner below. The finer particles fall into the burner itself, while the larger particles remain on the top of the burner causing problems with the flame sensor. As the fine particles build up inside the burner, it alters the burners volume and shape. This results in improper flame and affects the heat output of the burner. Knocking on the burner flue while observing for any falling rust particles to the burner section indicates it is time to service the burner and flue tube.

    CLEANING THE BURNER AND FLUE
    The first steps to undertake are to clean the flue burner tube and the orfice. Remove the rear access cover on the lower right side of the refrigerator. This is a tin cover which you remove to access the burner components. The flue is located right above the burner flame. Use compressed air to blow out the flue and the surrounding areas. After all rust is cleaned from area, remove the screw securing the thermocouple or igniter electrode. The thermocouple is a narrow tube, or the electrode is a metal probe located just above the burner protruding into the flame. Remove the thermocouple or electrode to access the screws holding the burner assembly in place. Remove the burner tube and soak it in alcohol for at least 15 minutes. Then let it air dry or use compressed air. The orifice is located just to the left of the burner tube and is a small brass colored nut with a very tiny hole in it. Remove this and allow it to soak in alcohol for at least 15 minutes. Do not probe or poke anything into the orifice. This will permanently damage the orifice. Allow to air dry. Once soaked and air dried, hold it up to a light source. You should see light shining through the orifice opening.
    Carefully re-assemble everything and light the burner flame. A normal flame will be a “hard blue” color without a yellow tip, drafting up the flue, emitting a slight roaring sound. There is not a flame adjustment that can be made. Proper LP pressure tests and flows are required to obtain correct flame output. If you still are experiencing a flame outage problem, then the electrical circuitry or controls is most likely the cause.
    Electrical control problems can be complicated and vary from model to model. A service manual would be required to diagnose and correct these type of problems. LP systems and gas pressures require expert knowledge, tools and repairs, therefore it is recommended to contact a qualified RV repair facility or contact the professionals at RV Trax, Inc. Phone (850)866-6999 or our website at www.rvtraxinc.com