RV Trax Panama City

Tag: RV

  • Tire Failure

    TIRE FAILURE
    After examining hundreds of RV tire-failures over the years, we have discovered that most tires are under rated for the overloaded weight of the RV. Tire manufacturers also recommend replacing the RV tires after five to seven years of service or if any tire cracking is present. Low or excessive tire pressures can result in catastrophic damage or loss of life. Tire ratings are engraved in the sidewall, along with a corresponding maximum cold inflation pressure.
    To increase tire life and safety, each wheel must be weighed individually when the vehicle is fully loaded. These weight measurements will determine how much tire pressure is required for a specific load. Tire manufacturers publish charts that establish the tire load capacities at various inflation pressures. This is required to achieve optimum tire performance. All tires on the same axle should be set based on the heavier side. If there is a major difference in side-to-side weight, the load needs to be redistributed.
    If any wheel weight exceeds the maximum tire load, the problem must be corrected immediately. Shifting the loads in your RV or upgrading the tires not to exceed the load rating of the wheel rim can remedy this.

    Remember, safety is your responsibility. For more information you can call a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com

  • Propane Gas Basics

    PROPANE GAS BASICS
    The propane (liquid petroleum) gas system is very important in a RV. The system is safe and reliable when maintained and used properly. Following are some basic tips:
     When opening a LP tank valve, open by turning very slowly. This will prevent a sudden surge of pressure into the regulator, which can blow out the diaphragm. The regulator is a vital part of your LP system. A malfunction can cause many problems.
     Listen for a constant hiss or hum at the regulator after opening the valve. This is an indication of a major leak. Propane has a rotten egg smell and if this smell or a constant hiss is present, you must turn off the gas immediately and have it checked
    by a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999. The valve should be opened all the way for normal operation.
     Periodically check tank connections and fittings for leaks and each time the tanks are disconnected or filled. This is a simple test to perform. You may purchase a Liquid Leak Detector Solution at most RV supply stores, and then spray this soapy solution onto the fittings. If any bubbles are present, a leak is indicated. Repair the leak and re-test.
     Always use a POL plug or cap in your LP cylinders when disconnected or transporting LP tanks. Never transport a LP tank in a passenger compartment of your vehicle. The area around the tank must always be properly vented.

    For more information about your recreational vehicle LP gas system, you may call 1-800-877-2495 and ask for a copy of “What You Should Know About Your LP Gas System”. For repairs call a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com

  • Basic Propane Leak Test

    Basic Propane Leak Test

    The LP Propane system is very important for appliance operation of your RV. It has the potential to be explosive and deadly. Never smoke or have any ignition sources present when filling or servicing a LP System. The propane system must be inspected regularly to avoid unsafe and dangerous conditions. Liquid Propane is very safe and convenient if all safety precautions are followed. Propane has a very small window of opportunity for ignition or explosion. A precise mixture of 2.15% to 9.6% LP gas mixed with air is required for ignition. A 25 to 1 air fuel mixture is required for proper ignition. Any less, or any more LP fuel mixture than that, it will not ignite, so it is considered a very stable fuel. Propane is 1.5 times heavier than air so it always settles at low points. This is why a properly installed RV LP Leak Detector is located at floor level.

    Any rotten egg smell is an indication of an LP leak. This rotten egg odor is caused by a chemical called Ethyl Mercaptan, that is mixed in the LP gas at a rate of 1 Lb. Per 10,000 gallons of LP. The initial Rotten egg smell is noticed at 1/5th the LP element level of flammability.

    A propane leak test can be performed in a few minutes, by a certified LP technician. Basic leak test can be performed by you. If you have a fifth wheel or travel trailer equipped with a Automatic Change Over Regulator, a simple test can be performed. Turn the main LP Gas Valve to the on position and listen for the initial PSST sound. After a second or two, the sound of flowing LP should stop. Next step is to notice the green band in the clear regulator cap. Now turn the main LP gas valve off at the LP tank for 3 to 4 minutes. Watch the green band in the clear regulator window, and it should stay green. If it turns red, (low gas indicator), this indicates a possible leak. A inline tank level pressure gauge can be used for most every other application. These gauges have a pointer needle that can be watched after performing the steps above. If the pointer drops, a leak is present.

    Most leaks are at the LP Regulator, or fittings. Pinpoint location of an LP leak can be found by turning on the LP gas and using a spray bottle filled with a LP Leak Solution, or MR Bubbles soap solution. A electronic LP Leak Detector is inexpensive and can be used to locate LP leaks. Simply spray all the fittings,regulator, hoses, and LP joints at all the LP Appliances with the leak or soap solution, or slowly pass over with the electronic leak detector. Any presence of bubbles or a beep indicate an LP leak. Turn off the LP valve and inspect the leaking fitting for cracks. If the fitting appears satisfactory, simply tighten the fitting. Turn on the LP gas valve and repeat the steps posted above.

    It is very important to remember that any LP leak is dangerous and is not acceptable. A regulator lock out and pressure drop test should be performed by a Qualified RV Technician to assure proper operation of the LP system.

     

     

     

  • Weight Ratings and Limits

    WEIGHT RATINGS AND LIMITS
    Ratings are the limits established by the vehicle manufacturer, which are not to be exceeded. Ratings are based on structural strength, braking power, stability, control issues and performance. Exceeding a rating invites unsafe conditions, potential damage, may void a warranty, complicate an insurance claim and in some cases violate the law. The following load abbreviations are explained as follows:

    GVWR
    Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is the maximum allowable weight of the fully loaded vehicle, including liquids, passenger’s cargo, and the tongue weight of any towed vehicle.

    GAWR
    Gross Axle Weight Rating is the maximum allowable weight each axle assembly is designed to carry, as measured at the tires, therefore including the weight of the axle assembly itself. GAWR is established by considering the rating of each of its components (tires, wheels, springs, axle, etc.) and rating the axle on its weakest link. The GAWR assumes the load is equal on both sides.

    GCWR
    Gross Combination Weight Rating is the maximum allowable combined weight of the vehicle and the attached towed vehicle. GCWR assumes that both vehicles have functioning brakes, with the exceptions in some cases for a very light towed vehicle, normally less than 1,500 pounds. Check your manual, and towing guide.

    UVW:
    Unloaded Vehicle Weight is the total weight of the vehicle, as built at the factory, with the fuel full, engine, transmission, generator, oil, fluids and coolants. It does not include cargo, fresh water, LP gas, occupants or dealer installed accessories.

    NCC:
    Net Carrying Capacity is the maximum weight of all personal belongings, food, fresh water, LP gas, cargo, tools and dealer installed accessories, etc., that can be carried by the vehicle.

    SCWR:
    Sleeping Capacity Weight Rating is the manufacturers designated number of sleeping positions multiplied by 154 pounds.

    CCC:
    Cargo Carrying Capacity is equal to the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating minus each of the following: The unloaded vehicle weight, full fresh potable water weight including the water heater capacity weight, LP gas weight and the sleeping capacity weight rating.

    Neither NCC nor CCC tells how much can be carried without exceeding a rating. Know the distribution of the carrying capacity. For example, how much is available on each axle and on each tire.

    HITCH RATINGS
    GTWR
    Gross Trailer Weight Rating is the maximum towed vehicle weight. Each component (receiver, draw bar, ball) of a ball type hitch has its own rating. Some ball type hitches have separate ratings when used with a weight distributing system.

    TWR/TLR/VLR
    Tongue Weight Rating, Tongue Load Rating, or Vertical Load Rating are different terms for the maximum vertical load that can be carried by the hitch.

    For more information you can visit https://rvsafety.com or call a qualified professional at(850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com

  • Safe Operation Of Your RV

    SAFE OPERATION OF YOUR RV

    FIRE PREVENTION
    Always properly maintain the RV, including often-overlooked engine maintenance.
    Never keep flammable materials around the stove, generator, or any other electrical components.
    Always keep the appliances, including the generator, clean and operating properly.
    Always turn the LP gas system off and beware of static electricity when refueling.
    Always have at least one good fire extinguisher in an easily known accessible location.
    It is better to have a few fire extinguishers at several accessible locations.

    If you ever find yourself in a fire situation, the first thing to do is escape the RV to save
    lives. ONLY FIGHT THE FIRE IF YOU CAN DO SO SAFELY!

    ESCAPE WINDOWS, HATCHES AND DOORS
    Never screw or seal an escape hatch, window or door shut. Know the locations and operations of these escape routes in case of an emergency. Fires consume RV’s quickly. If a fire is present, GET OUT IMMEDIATELY. Do not attempt to extinguish a fire until all life has exited the RV and the fire can be extinguished safely.

    SMOKE DETECTORS
    At least weekly, verify that the smoke detector is operating properly. Replace the battery at least once a year. A recommended addition or replacement of the existing detector is a Photoelectric Smoke Detector. It only requires a simple installation and it is more receptive to smoke from fires and less susceptible to false alarms.

    CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS
    You should have at least one detector in your bedroom mounted either to the ceiling or wall at least 8” from the ceiling or 4” up from the floor. A higher mounting location is best because Carbon Monoxide rises since it is lighter than air. Do not install close to an inside corner. Carbon Monoxide is a colorless, odorless, invisible, poisonous deadly gas that can kill without warning. When an engine or generator is running, even from
    another vehicle parked next to you, it is producing this deadly gas that can enter your RV. Carbon monoxide detectors have a lifespan of 5 to 8 years.

    PROPANE DETECTORS
    LP or Propane gas is heavier than air, therefore the detector must be mounted close to the floor. These detectors often have a dual function. A slow beep is generally an indication of a low battery condition and a continuous beep is from propane detection. Chemicals such as cleaners, colognes, alcohol, hairsprays or sewer gasses can cause the detector to activate a false alarm. NEVER DISCONNECT AN LP DETECTOR. Test the detector at least monthly. Many propane detectors are connected to an LP valve that will turn off the LP gas when the alarm is activated.

    BATTERY SAFETY
    Batteries emit hydrogen gas that is explosive, therefore batteries must be properly vented to the outside atmosphere. Check the battery electrolyte fluid monthly and fill with distilled water only. Keep the caps tight and the battery clean. If the battery appears swollen or damaged, replace it immediately. For more information see the article BATTERY MAINTENANCE.

    GENERATOR SAFETY
    Keep the generator’s fluid levels full, clean and properly maintained. NEVER use the generator compartment for storage. Inspect the fuel lines and exhaust for cracks or leaks. The exhaust tail pipe should protrude at least 1 inch past the exterior wall edge of the RV. When operating the generator, try to park your RV with the exhaust facing down wind, to carry the fumes away from the unit.

    TIRE SAFETY
    Check the tire pressures, including the spare tire before any trip. Inspect the tires for any visual defects present and replace every 5 to 7 years. Tires should be rated for the load of your vehicle. See the article TIRE FAILURE for more information.

    EXTERIOR INSPECTION
    Before leaving with the RV, check that all fluids, exterior lights, wipers and horn are operating properly. Also, check for fluid or exhaust leaks, ensure that the antenna, awning, slide out and leveling systems are retracted and locked. Make sure that all hoses, cords and cargo are stored properly.

    TOWING
    When towing an RV, trailer or a tow vehicle, test the operation of the turn signals, parking lights and brake lights. Manually engage the brake controller while rolling, to verify that the brakes are operating properly. Follow the manufacturers instructions for the towed vehicle.

    These are just a few of the many issues of concern. I hope that this article will help you become better prepared, have a safe trip and avoid many potential problems. Remember, common sense goes a long ways towards safety. For additional information you can call a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999 or visit https://www.rvsafety.org

  • Battery Maintenance

    BATTERY MAINTENANCE
    Batteries are a common problem in a recreational vehicle. This is especially true when an RV is being stored and is not plugged into a shore power source. For your RV to operate smoothly, it is essential that you have a good 12-volt DC (Direct Current) source. Most lights, jacks, power steps, furnaces, refrigerators, slide outs, water pumps and accessories require a good 12-volt DC supply. When an RV is plugged into an AC (Alternating Current) shore power source, a high tech battery charger called a Converter is supplying a DC charge to run the RV
    accessories and charge the house or coach batteries. The converter converts 120 Volts AC to approximately 13.5 Volts DC. RV’s use deep cycle 12-volt batteries wired in parallel, or at least two 6-volt batteries wired in series for 12-volt service. The 6-volt batteries have a much longer service life.
    Either way, both are used to power the coach or house accessories. These are generally wet cell batteries, so the electrolyte level must be checked regularly. Always refill all wet cell batteries with distilled water and use proper safety precautions as listed later in this article.
    Very few recreational vehicles use a deep cycle gel cell battery. This type of battery is low maintenance but requires special charging techniques. Most converter chargers are not capable of properly charging this type of battery; therefore it is not recommended as a replacement battery for most RV‘s.
    Starting or Cranking Batteries are designed to always be fully charged. They provide greater cranking amperage to start the engine. These batteries are generally used for the chassis only and most recreational vehicles do not supply charging voltages to this battery from the converter. These batteries usually obtain a charge from the alternator, when the engine is started.
    If your RV is in storage for an extended length of time, it is recommended that you have a solar battery charger installed. This will greatly extend the battery life.
    Always keep the top of your batteries clean and dry. A dirty battery can have a current drain, causing a discharge across the top of the battery. A mixture of water and baking soda will neutralize the acids and corrosion present on the batteries and in the storage compartment.
    It is wise to obtain a voltmeter to check battery voltages periodically. When a unit is not plugged in battery voltage should be no less than 10.5 Volts DC when it is discharged or 12.5 Volts DC when fully charged. When the RV is plugged into a shore power source, the converter should supply between 12.5 Volts DC and 14.2 Volts DC. These same voltages should also be present when shore power is disconnected and while the engine is running and the alternator is charging properly.
    You must follow specific precautions to service a battery safely. Batteries produce hydrogen gas, which is extremely explosive and can cause severe burns. Wet cell batteries require lots of ventilation. Some recreational vehicles have the battery in a sealed compartment located inside the unit. These compartments must always be vented to the outside atmosphere.
    Always remove any metallic jewelry, wear protective clothing and wear safety eye protection when servicing batteries. Smoking, sparks or flames can produce disastrous results. It is advisable to have a fresh water source available in case of an accident. Flush skin and eyes with plenty of water if this occurs. Always wash your hands with soap and water after any battery service.  Always disconnect the black negative (-) terminal first and the red positive (+) terminal last. When reconnecting the batteries, connect the red positive terminal first and the black negative terminal last. It is recommended that you clearly mark the terminal locations before removal to aid in re-installation of the terminals properly.
    Never attempt to charge a frozen, swollen or damaged battery. Always disconnect the batteries when using an electric welder on the RV.  You must always be careful and use extreme caution when servicing batteries.

    If you would like to have a qualified professional test and repair your electrical system, call (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com.