RV Trax Panama City

Tag: RV Tech

  • RV Water Heaters

    PILOT MODELS
    If your pilot model water heater is not operating properly, first check if the stove or other gas accessories are working, to verify proper gas operation. Sometimes these units have an air lock that will require an extended pilot lighting procedure. The gas valve being turned off for an extended period of time or an LP tank that has been removed to be refilled usually causes this. The pilot models use a gas control valve, burner and a thermocouple. The thermocouple, which senses the pilot flame, is a very small tube that runs from the lower portion of the gas control valve to a bracket located at the pilot flame. If the pilot lights when the gas valve is pressed but goes out when the gas valve is released, it may not be inserted into the pilot flame properly or the thermocouple is defective. Another common problem is that the ECO (Emergency Cut Out) has failed.This will require that the entire gas valve be replaced. There are other tests that can be performed by a qualified technician.

    DSI MODELS
    “Atwood” and “Suburban” are the two manufacturers of DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) water heaters in the RV industry today. There are only minor differences between the two. It would be difficult to get into specific detailed technical troubleshooting and repair techniques. We will answer some common questions and complaints that the average RVer can easily address. DSI models require a good 12-volt DC power source to operate. For details, see the article “Battery Maintenance”. Check the monitor panel for good supply voltage. Also, verify that the fuse for the water heater is good. The second test is to check if the stove or other appliances are operating to verify proper LP gas operation. For additional information see the article “Propane Gas Basics“. If these tests pass, check the following:
    1. Always turn off the 110 Volt AC water heater switch or circuit breaker, if equipped with electric operation before servicing any water heater.

    2. Unplug the electrical connector to the DSI Module Board and inspect the terminals for corrosion, then clean if necessary. Reinstall the connector. This board is usually black in color. Depending on the model, it can be located outside under the water heater cover or inside behind the water heater inside a cabinet, with a plastic cove rover the module if located inside.

    3. All water heaters use a thermostat and an ECO (Emergency Cut Out) or high limit switch. Some models use a reset switch and can be reset by simply pressing the black rubber push button or a small pin type button located on the ECO switch. Some models also use a heat fuse that has a terminal on each end inside a clear plastic tube and can fail.

    4. DSI models have a switch and a red light for LP gas operation located inside the RV. On most models the light should turn on momentarily until the water heater is lit. On all models if the light comes back on or stays on, this indicates a lock out problem and the unit will not operate. If this occurs, turn the switch off and back on to see if it is operating properly. This can be tried several more times. Air that may be in the LP gas system should self-bleed with this process. Air in the LP gas system can enter when the LP tank valve is closed for an extended period of time or the LP tank
    has been refilled. If your water heater still will not operate, seek professional assistance.

    Some important tips to follow for all models are:
    1. Never operate your water heater in gas or electric operation if the tank is empty. To properly fill your tank, open a hot water faucet, with a pressurized water supply connected, until all of the air has escaped and clear water flow is present. Do not open the T&P valve to fill.

    2. You should drain the water heater monthly to flush out corrosion. Turn off the water heater and supply before removing the drain plug. Open the T&P valve lever located on the top exterior of the water heater, this will aid in faster drain time. Always snap this valve closed and reinstall the drain plug before refilling the tank. Some models use an anode rod as part of the drain plug. This rod should be replaced if it is more than 50% deteriorated. Open a hot water faucet to refill the water heater.

    T & P VALVE
    This is a temperature and pressure safety valve. It is designed to release water pressure if the water temperature exceeds 210°F or if the pressure within the tank exceeds 124 to 150 PSI. Weeping or dripping at the valve while heating does not necessarily mean that the valve is defective. All water heater tanks require an air gap because water expands as it is heated. Never open the lever on the T&P valve to fill the tank. If the valve is leaking, turn off the water heater, water supply and allow cooling time to avoid burns. Remove the drain plug and open the T&P valve lever to aid in
    quicker draining of excess water in the tank. Reinstall the drain plug and snap the T&P valve lever closed. Turn on the water supply, open a hot water faucet to expel all the air until clear water flow is established. Turn the water heater back on. If the leak reoccurs the T&P valve must be replaced.

    SOOT
    You should occasionally check the exhaust and flame of your water heater while operating in the LP gas mode. Always check this if your unit has been in storage. The flame can be seen when the exterior cover is opened and it should be a nice blue color. If the flame is yellow or orange, the water heater should be shut off immediately in the LP gas mode. It can still be operated in the electric mode. A common cause of an orange or yellow flame is a spider web or obstruction in the burner tube. Other causes are, a dirty orifice, restricted flue tube, misaligned burner, flame spreader, obstructed
    exhaust grill or an improper air adjustment. Most RVers do not have the proper training or tools to address these concerns. You should seek professional assistance to correct the problem.

    ROTTEN EGG SMELL
    Some RV’ers have complained about a rotten egg smell in the hot water. It is most commonly caused by sulfur in the water. It can also be caused by an electro-galvanic action of the water heater tank or even the anode rod. Bacteria can also cause this. The best process to correct this condition is as follows:
    1. Turn off the water heater and water supply. Allow cooling to avoid burns. Releasethe water pressure by opening a hot water faucet then close after the pressure is released.

    2. Drain the tank by removing the drain plug. Open the T&P valve lever to aid in draining. Once it has drained, snap the T&P valve lever closed.

    3. Turn on the water supply and allow plenty of clean pressurized water to flush the sediment out of the tank drain. Compressed air can also be used to agitate the sediment or in severe cases, you may also use a stiff wire through the drain hole to break up the sediment. Be careful not to damage the threads. Reinstall the drain plug when completed. Refill as outlined above, or continue to step 4.

    4. Flush the entire system as described in the article WATER SYSTEM SANITATION.

    5. For major smells, you can add 2 parts of distilled vinegar to 1 part water. This takes a lot of distilled vinegar. To do this reinstall the drain plug and open a hot water faucet to vent. Screw or install a rubber hose into the T&P valve with the lever open and insert a funnel into the open end of the rubber hose. Pour the vinegar and water solution through the funnel until the tank is full. Let it soak for at least 2 hours.

    6. Remove the drain plug to drain all the solution from the tank. Snap the T&P valve lever closed and turn off the hot water faucet. Turn on the fresh water supply, and allow plenty of water to flush out the solution from the tank. Turn off the water supply, reinstall the drain plug, and open a hot water faucet. Turn on the water supply and allow all air to escape from the faucet until clear. Turn the water heater back on.

    We have tried to address many of the common problems associated with water heaters. You should be aware of your own capabilities. This article is not intended to take the place of professional detailed technical training. If you would like to have a qualified professional correct these problems, call (850) 866-6999 or visit .

    February 14, 2011

  • Tire Failure

    TIRE FAILURE
    After examining hundreds of RV tire-failures over the years, we have discovered that most tires are under rated for the overloaded weight of the RV. Tire manufacturers also recommend replacing the RV tires after five to seven years of service or if any tire cracking is present. Low or excessive tire pressures can result in catastrophic damage or loss of life. Tire ratings are engraved in the sidewall, along with a corresponding maximum cold inflation pressure.
    To increase tire life and safety, each wheel must be weighed individually when the vehicle is fully loaded. These weight measurements will determine how much tire pressure is required for a specific load. Tire manufacturers publish charts that establish the tire load capacities at various inflation pressures. This is required to achieve optimum tire performance. All tires on the same axle should be set based on the heavier side. If there is a major difference in side-to-side weight, the load needs to be redistributed.
    If any wheel weight exceeds the maximum tire load, the problem must be corrected immediately. Shifting the loads in your RV or upgrading the tires not to exceed the load rating of the wheel rim can remedy this.

    Remember, safety is your responsibility. For more information you can call a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com

  • Propane Gas Basics

    PROPANE GAS BASICS
    The propane (liquid petroleum) gas system is very important in a RV. The system is safe and reliable when maintained and used properly. Following are some basic tips:
     When opening a LP tank valve, open by turning very slowly. This will prevent a sudden surge of pressure into the regulator, which can blow out the diaphragm. The regulator is a vital part of your LP system. A malfunction can cause many problems.
     Listen for a constant hiss or hum at the regulator after opening the valve. This is an indication of a major leak. Propane has a rotten egg smell and if this smell or a constant hiss is present, you must turn off the gas immediately and have it checked
    by a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999. The valve should be opened all the way for normal operation.
     Periodically check tank connections and fittings for leaks and each time the tanks are disconnected or filled. This is a simple test to perform. You may purchase a Liquid Leak Detector Solution at most RV supply stores, and then spray this soapy solution onto the fittings. If any bubbles are present, a leak is indicated. Repair the leak and re-test.
     Always use a POL plug or cap in your LP cylinders when disconnected or transporting LP tanks. Never transport a LP tank in a passenger compartment of your vehicle. The area around the tank must always be properly vented.

    For more information about your recreational vehicle LP gas system, you may call 1-800-877-2495 and ask for a copy of “What You Should Know About Your LP Gas System”. For repairs call a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com

  • Basic Propane Leak Test

    Basic Propane Leak Test

    The LP Propane system is very important for appliance operation of your RV. It has the potential to be explosive and deadly. Never smoke or have any ignition sources present when filling or servicing a LP System. The propane system must be inspected regularly to avoid unsafe and dangerous conditions. Liquid Propane is very safe and convenient if all safety precautions are followed. Propane has a very small window of opportunity for ignition or explosion. A precise mixture of 2.15% to 9.6% LP gas mixed with air is required for ignition. A 25 to 1 air fuel mixture is required for proper ignition. Any less, or any more LP fuel mixture than that, it will not ignite, so it is considered a very stable fuel. Propane is 1.5 times heavier than air so it always settles at low points. This is why a properly installed RV LP Leak Detector is located at floor level.

    Any rotten egg smell is an indication of an LP leak. This rotten egg odor is caused by a chemical called Ethyl Mercaptan, that is mixed in the LP gas at a rate of 1 Lb. Per 10,000 gallons of LP. The initial Rotten egg smell is noticed at 1/5th the LP element level of flammability.

    A propane leak test can be performed in a few minutes, by a certified LP technician. Basic leak test can be performed by you. If you have a fifth wheel or travel trailer equipped with a Automatic Change Over Regulator, a simple test can be performed. Turn the main LP Gas Valve to the on position and listen for the initial PSST sound. After a second or two, the sound of flowing LP should stop. Next step is to notice the green band in the clear regulator cap. Now turn the main LP gas valve off at the LP tank for 3 to 4 minutes. Watch the green band in the clear regulator window, and it should stay green. If it turns red, (low gas indicator), this indicates a possible leak. A inline tank level pressure gauge can be used for most every other application. These gauges have a pointer needle that can be watched after performing the steps above. If the pointer drops, a leak is present.

    Most leaks are at the LP Regulator, or fittings. Pinpoint location of an LP leak can be found by turning on the LP gas and using a spray bottle filled with a LP Leak Solution, or MR Bubbles soap solution. A electronic LP Leak Detector is inexpensive and can be used to locate LP leaks. Simply spray all the fittings,regulator, hoses, and LP joints at all the LP Appliances with the leak or soap solution, or slowly pass over with the electronic leak detector. Any presence of bubbles or a beep indicate an LP leak. Turn off the LP valve and inspect the leaking fitting for cracks. If the fitting appears satisfactory, simply tighten the fitting. Turn on the LP gas valve and repeat the steps posted above.

    It is very important to remember that any LP leak is dangerous and is not acceptable. A regulator lock out and pressure drop test should be performed by a Qualified RV Technician to assure proper operation of the LP system.

     

     

     

  • Weight Ratings and Limits

    WEIGHT RATINGS AND LIMITS
    Ratings are the limits established by the vehicle manufacturer, which are not to be exceeded. Ratings are based on structural strength, braking power, stability, control issues and performance. Exceeding a rating invites unsafe conditions, potential damage, may void a warranty, complicate an insurance claim and in some cases violate the law. The following load abbreviations are explained as follows:

    GVWR
    Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is the maximum allowable weight of the fully loaded vehicle, including liquids, passenger’s cargo, and the tongue weight of any towed vehicle.

    GAWR
    Gross Axle Weight Rating is the maximum allowable weight each axle assembly is designed to carry, as measured at the tires, therefore including the weight of the axle assembly itself. GAWR is established by considering the rating of each of its components (tires, wheels, springs, axle, etc.) and rating the axle on its weakest link. The GAWR assumes the load is equal on both sides.

    GCWR
    Gross Combination Weight Rating is the maximum allowable combined weight of the vehicle and the attached towed vehicle. GCWR assumes that both vehicles have functioning brakes, with the exceptions in some cases for a very light towed vehicle, normally less than 1,500 pounds. Check your manual, and towing guide.

    UVW:
    Unloaded Vehicle Weight is the total weight of the vehicle, as built at the factory, with the fuel full, engine, transmission, generator, oil, fluids and coolants. It does not include cargo, fresh water, LP gas, occupants or dealer installed accessories.

    NCC:
    Net Carrying Capacity is the maximum weight of all personal belongings, food, fresh water, LP gas, cargo, tools and dealer installed accessories, etc., that can be carried by the vehicle.

    SCWR:
    Sleeping Capacity Weight Rating is the manufacturers designated number of sleeping positions multiplied by 154 pounds.

    CCC:
    Cargo Carrying Capacity is equal to the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating minus each of the following: The unloaded vehicle weight, full fresh potable water weight including the water heater capacity weight, LP gas weight and the sleeping capacity weight rating.

    Neither NCC nor CCC tells how much can be carried without exceeding a rating. Know the distribution of the carrying capacity. For example, how much is available on each axle and on each tire.

    HITCH RATINGS
    GTWR
    Gross Trailer Weight Rating is the maximum towed vehicle weight. Each component (receiver, draw bar, ball) of a ball type hitch has its own rating. Some ball type hitches have separate ratings when used with a weight distributing system.

    TWR/TLR/VLR
    Tongue Weight Rating, Tongue Load Rating, or Vertical Load Rating are different terms for the maximum vertical load that can be carried by the hitch.

    For more information you can visit https://rvsafety.com or call a qualified professional at(850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com

  • Safe Operation Of Your RV

    SAFE OPERATION OF YOUR RV

    FIRE PREVENTION
    Always properly maintain the RV, including often-overlooked engine maintenance.
    Never keep flammable materials around the stove, generator, or any other electrical components.
    Always keep the appliances, including the generator, clean and operating properly.
    Always turn the LP gas system off and beware of static electricity when refueling.
    Always have at least one good fire extinguisher in an easily known accessible location.
    It is better to have a few fire extinguishers at several accessible locations.

    If you ever find yourself in a fire situation, the first thing to do is escape the RV to save
    lives. ONLY FIGHT THE FIRE IF YOU CAN DO SO SAFELY!

    ESCAPE WINDOWS, HATCHES AND DOORS
    Never screw or seal an escape hatch, window or door shut. Know the locations and operations of these escape routes in case of an emergency. Fires consume RV’s quickly. If a fire is present, GET OUT IMMEDIATELY. Do not attempt to extinguish a fire until all life has exited the RV and the fire can be extinguished safely.

    SMOKE DETECTORS
    At least weekly, verify that the smoke detector is operating properly. Replace the battery at least once a year. A recommended addition or replacement of the existing detector is a Photoelectric Smoke Detector. It only requires a simple installation and it is more receptive to smoke from fires and less susceptible to false alarms.

    CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS
    You should have at least one detector in your bedroom mounted either to the ceiling or wall at least 8” from the ceiling or 4” up from the floor. A higher mounting location is best because Carbon Monoxide rises since it is lighter than air. Do not install close to an inside corner. Carbon Monoxide is a colorless, odorless, invisible, poisonous deadly gas that can kill without warning. When an engine or generator is running, even from
    another vehicle parked next to you, it is producing this deadly gas that can enter your RV. Carbon monoxide detectors have a lifespan of 5 to 8 years.

    PROPANE DETECTORS
    LP or Propane gas is heavier than air, therefore the detector must be mounted close to the floor. These detectors often have a dual function. A slow beep is generally an indication of a low battery condition and a continuous beep is from propane detection. Chemicals such as cleaners, colognes, alcohol, hairsprays or sewer gasses can cause the detector to activate a false alarm. NEVER DISCONNECT AN LP DETECTOR. Test the detector at least monthly. Many propane detectors are connected to an LP valve that will turn off the LP gas when the alarm is activated.

    BATTERY SAFETY
    Batteries emit hydrogen gas that is explosive, therefore batteries must be properly vented to the outside atmosphere. Check the battery electrolyte fluid monthly and fill with distilled water only. Keep the caps tight and the battery clean. If the battery appears swollen or damaged, replace it immediately. For more information see the article BATTERY MAINTENANCE.

    GENERATOR SAFETY
    Keep the generator’s fluid levels full, clean and properly maintained. NEVER use the generator compartment for storage. Inspect the fuel lines and exhaust for cracks or leaks. The exhaust tail pipe should protrude at least 1 inch past the exterior wall edge of the RV. When operating the generator, try to park your RV with the exhaust facing down wind, to carry the fumes away from the unit.

    TIRE SAFETY
    Check the tire pressures, including the spare tire before any trip. Inspect the tires for any visual defects present and replace every 5 to 7 years. Tires should be rated for the load of your vehicle. See the article TIRE FAILURE for more information.

    EXTERIOR INSPECTION
    Before leaving with the RV, check that all fluids, exterior lights, wipers and horn are operating properly. Also, check for fluid or exhaust leaks, ensure that the antenna, awning, slide out and leveling systems are retracted and locked. Make sure that all hoses, cords and cargo are stored properly.

    TOWING
    When towing an RV, trailer or a tow vehicle, test the operation of the turn signals, parking lights and brake lights. Manually engage the brake controller while rolling, to verify that the brakes are operating properly. Follow the manufacturers instructions for the towed vehicle.

    These are just a few of the many issues of concern. I hope that this article will help you become better prepared, have a safe trip and avoid many potential problems. Remember, common sense goes a long ways towards safety. For additional information you can call a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999 or visit https://www.rvsafety.org