RV Trax Panama City

Tag: RV Tech

  • RV Electrical Shocks

    If you have ever experienced an electrical shock when you touch your RV, or while entering or exiting your RV, there is a safety concern to avoid injury or possible electrocution.

    This is a condition called “Hot Skin” and is often caused by the wiring in the electrical receptacle that your RV Cord is plugged into, or a faulty extension cord.  It can also be caused by faulty wiring or connections in your Recreational Vehicle.  If electrical “Hot” and “Neutral” wires are reversed or the Ground wire is improperly connected, your coach and you can become an electrical circuit with unpleasant or dangerous results.

    There is an inexpensive small device available called a Polarity Tester.  This  device will eliminate the guesswork and the possible hazards before you plug in your RV to Shore Power.  Simply plug  the device into the Shore Power Outlet, before plugging in your RV Electrical Cord. It is a simple device to use, and can save you money and possibly save your life.

    After checking the Shore Power Outlet, it is recommended to check your RV outlets regularly.  Road vibrations can cause wiring connections to loosen and possibly causing damage to your RV.

  • Water System Sanitation

    WATER SYSTEM SANITATION
    It is not uncommon for RV owners to complain of bad water. The first sign of contaminated water systems is usually a bad taste, followed by odors emanating from the water supply. Bacteria may have built up in the water tank, especially if the water tanks supply has not been used frequently and
    not been replenished with clean water regularly. When a rig comes out of storage or is being used extensively on a city water connection, the fresh water tank and the entire water system should be sanitized before use. The following steps should be taken to disinfect the entire water system:

    1. Turn off the city water supply. Verify the water heater is turned off. Remove the water heater drain plug.
    2. Drain the fresh water tank and water heater completely.
    3. Close the fresh water valve and reinstall the water heater drain plug.
    4. Refill the fresh water tank about half way with fresh water.
    5. Mix ¼ cup of household bleach for every 15 gallons of the fresh water and water heater tanks total capacity, in a container of one or two gallons of fresh water. Pour this mixture into the fresh water tank and top off the tank with fresh water.
    6. Turn on the fresh water pump and open all the faucets, including the toilet. Allow the air to escape from the hot water supply to fill the water heater tank. This will fill the entire system with the bleach solution.
    7. Top off the water tank again with fresh water.
    8. Drive the vehicle if possible to slosh the solution, then let stand for several hours.
    9. Completely drain the entire fresh water system including the water heater.
    10. Close the fresh water tank valve and reinstall the drain plugs.
    11. To neutralize the bleach odor, mix ½ cup of baking soda with about one gallon of fresh water and pour into the fresh water tank. Refill the tank with fresh water, turn the pump on again and flush this mixture through the entire system.
    12. To drain the baking soda solution, open the fresh water tank valve and remove the water heater drain plug, then proceed to drain the entire system again. Close the fresh water tank valve and reinstall the water heater drain plug.
    13. Refill the fresh water tank with clean water, turn on the pump, then open the hot water and cold water faucets until all of the air has escaped. Turn your hot water heater back on. Now your fresh water system is disinfected and cleaner than new. If you would like a qualified professional to perform this service for you, call (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com.

  • Refrigerator Maintenance

    RV Refrigerator Maintenance Tips

    The absorption style RV refrigerator requires very little maintenance, but there are some things that you can do to maintain proper operations. The most important tip is only operating the refrigerator while your RV is level and to keep it clean, preventing any obstructions in the wall and roof venting system. The air flow through the back of the refrigerator is gravity controlled. Cooler air is drawn through the lower exterior wall vent exterior venting system flowing across the hot refrigerator coils. The warm air rises out through the upper wall vent or roof vent. The rising air collects heat from the evaporator fins as it passes by, thus removing heat from the cooling unit. Air flow cooling problems increase during hot and humid climates and are more prevalent with refrigerators mounted in slide out walls with a upper exterior wall vent.
    If you have poor refrigerator cooling performance, use a mirror and light at the bottom backside compartment of the refrigerator facing upwards. Verify that there is not any insulation or other obstructions that are restricting air flow. There should be a maximum of one inch clearance between the evaporator coils and the facing wall. If the clearance is more than this, your refrigerator will benefit by the addition of baffles. It is sometimes necessary to remove the refrigerator to install baffles. This will generally result in much improved cooling efficiency. Some models of refrigerators also use fans located on the rear coils to aid in air flow. These fans are temperature controlled by the coils and can generally be heard operating during warmer climates. It is very important that fan operation is verified. A small fan can also be installed aiding in additional air flow. Parking with the refrigerator side in a shaded area, will also help cooling efficiency.
    During hot and humid weather, your refrigerator is working to capacity. It is recommended that the refrigerator doors be closed as much as possible. Decide what you need to remove or put into the refrigerator beforehand. Open and close the doors as quickly as possible. Do not overload the refrigerator storage compartment. It is important to allow for air currents to circulate inside the food storage compartment for adequate cooling. Small battery operated fans can be placed in the food storage compartment to aid in air circulation and maintaining a even air temperature throughout the food compartment. It is also recommended to limit the amount of heavy items stored on the refrigerator doors to avoid expensive hinge and door replacement.
    Check the door seals by inserting a dollar bill between the door and refrigerator cabinet. Close the door on the bill, checking for slight resistance when you pull the bill out. Repeat this test all the way around the door opening. If there are any places where resistance is not felt, a rolled up paper towel temporarily installed behind that section of seal and a hair dryer to heat the seal may correct the problem. After the seal has cooled, remove the rolled up paper towel and recheck the seal with the bill. A torn or damaged door seal will require seal or door replacement.
    Always start the refrigerator at least 24 hours before using, allowing it to cool while empty. Cool all food and beverages before loading a the RV refrigerator. Allow all hot or warm foods to cool to room temperature before putting it away. This will greatly reduce defrosting requirements and greatly increase cooling performance.
    It is recommended to monitor your refrigerators interior temperature to ensure food safety. A fridge alarm is available. This is a dual temperature monitor system that emits both audible and visible warnings when interior temperatures exceed your settings. A recommended product is a Camco Fridge alarm manufacturer # 41223 or our catalog # 14-7873. Visit our website at www.rvtraxinc.com for more information.
    Watch this RV Education 101 video for a better understanding of your RV refrigerator operation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiODEcUAkeU&feature=related

  • RV Refrigerator Repair

    RV Refrigerator Repair Tips

    The following information is basic tips to aid in diagnostics and repair of your RV refrigerator. These types of repairs should be performed by a professional RV technician. We cannot accept any liabilities from lack of information or injuries caused from the following information. It is recommended that you obtain and follow factory service manual procedures before attempting any repairs or service procedures. We provide all of these repairs at RV Trax, Inc. service facility. Phone # (850)866-6999 or visit our website at www.rvtraxinc.com.

    Poor cooling performance of an RV refrigerator can be caused by several conditions. The first recommendation is to always check for any refrigerator recalls. Our website at www.rvtraxinc.com has quick links to manufacturer recalls. Click here for a RV Education 101 refrigerator video to help you understand the operation of your refrigerator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiODEcUAkeU&feature=related

    LEAKING COOLING UNIT
    A strong ammonia smell from the refrigerator food compartment, or the outside rear of the refrigerator indicates a leaking cooling unit. This can be a dangerous condition, causing a fire. A visual inspection should be performed at the rear of the refrigerator by removing the outside wall vent cover. Inspect for any green or yellow residue around the refrigerator coils, boiler area or sheet metal base. It can appear as a dried liquid stain or a powder type residue. There is a chemical called Sodium Chromate mixed with the ammonia, hydrogen and water solution that circulates in the cooling unit to help prevent corroding of the cooling unit tubing. If a leak develops, the sodium chromate changes from a liquid to a powder in the presence of air. If any of these conditions exist, unplug and disable the refrigerator from use immediately, to avoid a possible life threatening threat. This indicates the cooling unit or refrigerator will need to be replaced.
    If the boiler is warm and the absorber tank is hot, this indicates that a leak has developed and the hydrogen gas has escaped. The liquid ammonia does not change into a vapor without the hydrogen gas atmosphere so it circulates as a liquid causing this condition. The cooling unit will need to be replaced. Replacement parts can be obtained at www.rvtraxinc.com

    TESTING THE COOLING UNIT
    This test can be performed by feel. For this test, you will use your hands. Use caution to avoid burns, if there are any cooling unit malfunctions.
    A properly operating cooling unit will have equally warm heat temperatures in the middle sections of the boiler tubes and the absorber tank.
    When a cooling unit malfunctions due to a blockage, the boiler section may be to hot to touch and the absorber tank will be relatively cool. Any blockage reduces the free flow of the solutions and will inhibit or completely prevent proper cooling operation. A blockage is generally caused when the refrigerator is operated in a off level condition. Regular operation in off level conditions causes a cumulative cooling unit blockage damage starting the degradation process. This damage also occurs from excessive heat from either the L.P. Flame or improper electric heating elements.
    The heat that is generated by the propane flame or the electric heating elements is the heat force that initiates the cycling movement of the solutions inside the cooling unit. The refrigerator relies on gravity to move the solutions through the system once the heat source has lifted the solutions to the top of the cooling unit. The passages that the solution must travel through have only a slight slope and any off level condition will hinder the gravity flow. What happens in this situation, is that the solution in the cooling unit overheats and crystallizes into solid particles that form and lodge into places forming restrictions.
    There is not a way to reverse this problem. A temporary procedure that may restore cooling is to remove the refrigerator and lay it on the right side for at least 12 hours, rotate upside down for at least 12 hours, rotate to the left side for at least 12 hours. Turn it back upright for at least another 12 hours. Restore power for at least 24 hours and test for proper cooling.

    ADVANCED TESTING METHODS
    Make sure that there is no ammonia smell or green yellow residue present. If any of these conditions are present, DO NOT OPERATE THE REFRIGERATOR. Verify the refrigerator unit is level. Unplug the power cord and turn off the LP gas. If you have a 3 way fridge that operates on 12 volt DC, caution must be used to avoid using this element for this test. Locate the 110 volt heating element(s) leads at the cylindrical casing surrounding the boiler flue, approximately 12 inches above the LP flame inspection cover. These leads will go directly to terminals located into the black control box at the rear of the refrigerator. Disconnect the leads from the control module terminals. Modify a power cord with 2 insulated male flat spade terminals to connect directly to the 110 volt heating element wire terminals. If you unit has two 110 volt heating elements, make a Y type jumper to connect both heating elements together. Polarity is not important. Plug the cord into a 110 volt wall outlet. If you are not comfortable performing this procedure contact a authorized RV technician or have the professionals at www.rvtraxinc.com perform cooling unit testing and repair for you.
    Place a thermometer into a glass of water in the refrigerator food compartment and close the door. It is important to use the glass of water for this test as it equalizes the temperature reading. After 12 hours the temperature should be 43 degrees F. or colder. After 24 hours the temperature should be in the mid 30’s or lower. If these temperatures are not reached and maintained, the cooling unit or refrigerator must be replaced. Verify that heat is emitted from the refrigerator coils to verify proper heat source electrical operation. Without a heat source, cooling operation will not be present. This would indicate possible faulty heating element(s).

    ELECTRIC HEATING ELEMENT TESTING
    The electric heating element(s) supply the necessary heat for refrigerator operation on shore power. The element(s) can be checked with a ohm meter. Always disconnect the power cord and 12 volt source before performing this test. Locate and disconnect the 110 volt heating element wires. Connect an ohm meter across the terminals and check the resistance. A zero reading indicates a shorted element. A infinite reading indicates a open element. In either case, replace the heating element. The correct reading varies from model to model. Consult the service manual for specific model resistance measurements. Electric elements can be removed and replace by twisting the element back and forth while applying upward pressure.

    L.P. FLAME INSPECTION OR OUTAGE
    It is difficult to tell by looking at the flame, if it is a proper flame or slightly reduced. The flame should be a blue color. If the flame appears yellow or has a squashed appearance, it is an indication of a restricted flue. When operating in the LP gas mode, the products of combustion are removed by the flue. After a period of time, soot and rust particles will accumulate on the inside surface of the flue. Road vibrations will loosen these deposits causing them to crumble and fall to the burner below. The finer particles fall into the burner itself, while the larger particles remain on the top of the burner causing problems with the flame sensor. As the fine particles build up inside the burner, it alters the burners volume and shape. This results in improper flame and affects the heat output of the burner. Knocking on the burner flue while observing for any falling rust particles to the burner section indicates it is time to service the burner and flue tube.

    CLEANING THE BURNER AND FLUE
    The first steps to undertake are to clean the flue burner tube and the orfice. Remove the rear access cover on the lower right side of the refrigerator. This is a tin cover which you remove to access the burner components. The flue is located right above the burner flame. Use compressed air to blow out the flue and the surrounding areas. After all rust is cleaned from area, remove the screw securing the thermocouple or igniter electrode. The thermocouple is a narrow tube, or the electrode is a metal probe located just above the burner protruding into the flame. Remove the thermocouple or electrode to access the screws holding the burner assembly in place. Remove the burner tube and soak it in alcohol for at least 15 minutes. Then let it air dry or use compressed air. The orifice is located just to the left of the burner tube and is a small brass colored nut with a very tiny hole in it. Remove this and allow it to soak in alcohol for at least 15 minutes. Do not probe or poke anything into the orifice. This will permanently damage the orifice. Allow to air dry. Once soaked and air dried, hold it up to a light source. You should see light shining through the orifice opening.
    Carefully re-assemble everything and light the burner flame. A normal flame will be a “hard blue” color without a yellow tip, drafting up the flue, emitting a slight roaring sound. There is not a flame adjustment that can be made. Proper LP pressure tests and flows are required to obtain correct flame output. If you still are experiencing a flame outage problem, then the electrical circuitry or controls is most likely the cause.
    Electrical control problems can be complicated and vary from model to model. A service manual would be required to diagnose and correct these type of problems. LP systems and gas pressures require expert knowledge, tools and repairs, therefore it is recommended to contact a qualified RV repair facility or contact the professionals at RV Trax, Inc. Phone (850)866-6999 or our website at www.rvtraxinc.com

  • RV Furnaces

    FURNACES
    A major concern for RV’ers is a furnace quitting during the cold of winter. There are some basic checks before calling for service. Furnaces require a good 12-volt DC supply to operate. See the article BATTERY MAINTENANCE. If the furnace does not blow at all, check the fuse in the fuse panel. Many furnaces use a power switch and a circuit breaker located under the outside cover secured by two large screws or 4 small screws. Other models have these components located inside at the rear of the furnace, usually under a cover. If these checks pass inspection, most likely wiring connections, thermostat or the blower motor is defective. If it blows air and does not ignite properly, check that the LP gas system is operating
    properly. Turn on a stove to verify good operation. If the stove operates poorly, it can be an indication of a low LP gas level, which in cold weather will provide poor performance. See the article PROPANE GAS BASICS. Airflow restrictions caused by the vents being blocked will also cause the unit not to operate properly. If the LP gas has run out, has recently been filled or the gas valve has been turned off, try to turn the thermostat off and back on through several cycles to possibly self-bleed the air lock out of the LP lines.
    The Furnace’s theory of operation is as follows: The thermostat has a set of contacts that close when heat is required and open when the correct room temperature is obtained. When the thermostat contacts close they connect a set of wires together at the furnace, this activates a time delay control that activates the fan motor. The air movement from the fan activates a sail switch contacts that close, sending a signal to the DSI control board. After a short delay, the DSI control board opens the gas valves and sends a high voltage spark to the electrode located by the burner. The DSI module should sense a flame through the electrode. If a flame is not sensed, the furnace will lock out until the thermostat is reset. Older systems will continue to blow air and newer units will quit blowing until the thermostat is reset. When a furnace fails to start, some of the most common failures are: a blown fuse, tripped circuit breaker, defective wiring connections or a defective thermostat. If it will not ignite properly, the most common component failures are: a defective DSI module, blower motor, electrode or sail switch. DSI modules are known to cause intermittent operating problems that are often hard to diagnose. Humidity, heat and cold may cause an intermittent failure due to expansion and contraction.

    We hope the information provided can help you locate and correct the problem. Safety should be of major concern when dealing with LP propane gas and carbon monoxide. If the furnace is not working properly after performing these basic tests, it is best to contact a qualified professional to properly diagnose and repair the furnace at (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com .

  • RV Air Conditioners

    RV AIR CONDITIONERS
    Air Conditioner (A/C) questions and problems are very common to most RV’ers. Often, with little maintenance these units provide many years of efficient operation. Most RVers complain that the A/C is not cooling the way that it should and ask for it to be recharged. Most all RV air conditioners are factory-sealed units and these units should never require recharging, unlike your automobile or RV dash air. Most recreational vehicle A/C units are very similar, with only minor differences. The most prevalent problem with recreational vehicle A/C units is a dirty filter which reduces air flow and causes dirty evaporator coils, freezing up and efficiency problems, to name a few. Diminished cooling performance is usually a dirty evaporator coil from lack of filter maintenance or smoking indoors. The evaporator coils can be seen with a light, when the filter is removed. They are vertical coils and fins that look similar to a silver radiator when clean. When dirty, they appear gray, brown or black, and in severe cases, it looks like a cloth blanket covering the coils. Dirty coils greatly reduce the efficiency of the A/C unit and it can also cause the compressor to overheat. The evaporator coil must be clean to properly conduct the heat from the air. A qualified professional technician should clean dirty coils. The process is complicated and requires service from the roof, special caustic cleaners and partial dis assembly of the A/C unit. Recreational vehicle A/C systems are designed from the factory not to be recharged for the life of the unit; therefore the Freon levels cannot be checked easily. There are only two common performance tests using thermometers and an amp meter. The RV’er can perform a temperature performance test with two thermometers. One is
    used for ambient room temperature going into the A/C filter and the other thermometer is to measure the cool air exiting the discharge vent closest to the A/C unit. The A/C should be set to maximum cold and should run for at least 30 minutes. The factory specification is approximately 20°F cooler air exiting out the discharge, than the ambient room temperature entering into the filter. Air conditioners only remove the heat from the air, so if your RV temperature inside is 90 degrees the discharge temperature would only be approximately 70 degrees.
    Most RVers, coming from a cooler and drier climate, complain about poor A/C performance in a hot and humid climate. The RV itself can be the problem. Lots of windows, vents and poor insulation will result in uncomfortable conditions. Remember the A/C discharge temperature is only 20 degrees cooler than the inside temperature. Parking in a shaded area and closing window shades will help overcome this problem. The RV may require a larger or an additional A/C unit. Operating the A/C in extremely humid conditions will also reduce efficiency due to water droplets on the evaporator coil acting like an insulator, reducing air to coil contact. Closing off vents and restricting the
    airflow will also reduce efficiency. A/C units sometimes freeze up at night in high humidity conditions when fan speed is set to low. Operate the fan speed on high when operating in these conditions.
    If the A/C condenser coils, which are located on the roof at the outside rear of the A/C, are clogged, damaged or bent, it will greatly reduce efficiency.
    Another common problem is the 30 or 50 amp voltage supply being too low. Operating voltage should be at least 105 volts AC. A dirty plug connection, using a long or small extension cord, electrical adapters or a burnt shore power receptacle outlet are the most common causes of compressor overheating and failure. Never use a 15/20 amp electrical adapter when operating an A/C unit. A 30-amp service is only capable of
    running one A/C unit. A 50-amp service is required to run two or more A/C units.
    Basement central air units have two compressors and should always use a 50-amp service or have a power management-shedding device to disable one compressor when operating on a 30-amp service.
    It is recommended to have a receptacle mounted volt meter for 30 amp service or two receptacle mounted volt meters on different circuits to monitor the line voltage for 50 amp service at all times. You can easily see low or high operating voltages to your RV. Many campgrounds have inferior wiring and worn out receptacle outlets. Another great alternative is to have a line conditioner surge protector installed in your RV or an external surge protector that your RV outlet can plug into. A 50 amp unit is especially susceptible to major damage to all the electrical appliances and accessories from an over voltage condition caused by a bad common outlet terminal. A line conditioner and surge protector can save you lots of money and headaches.
    Most A/C units have a thermostat and a control board that require a good 12-volt DC supply and 120 volts AC to operate. If the unit does not turn on, check the AC circuit breaker that supplies the A/C unit. Reset it, if necessary, by firmly pressing it completely off, then press back to the on position. A good indicator of a good 12-volt DC supply is to listen for a clicking sound from the control board when the A/C thermostat is turned on. The board is usually located above the A/C filter. If a click is not heard, check the 12 volt DC fuse in the fuse panel or verify that you have a good 12
    volt DC supply as described in the article BATTERY MAINTENANCE.
    Some RV’ers complain of water intrusion around the A/C unit from rainy weather. A poor seal between the A/C unit and the roof can cause this. This gasket will compress over time and require an occasional tightening. It can be tightened by accessing the 4 bolts facing down located in the four corners when the filter cover and housing are removed. The gasket can be inspected at this time. If it is less than ½ inch thick, it should be replaced. Do not use excessive force or distortion of the A/C sheet metal can result in fan motor binding or produce noises. While the cover is off it is recommended to flood the roof with water to inspect for leaks. If it continues to leak the gasket must be replaced, because it has compressed too much. Never attempt to use a sealant to glue down or glob around an A/C unit. This can ruin a roof as well as making removalof the A/C unit almost impossible.

    Remember that no person should ever attempt repairs on a RV air conditioner without proper training, licensing, tools and access to the correct technical information. Hopefully, this information has been of great value to you. If you have performed these tests or do not understand how to perform these tests, and your A/C unit is not performing properly, it is time to call a qualified professional at (850) 866-6999 or visit https://rvtrax.com to correct the problem.